Née vers 1930 Union(s) Mariée en 1962 avec Heinrich HARRER, Sportif Alpiniste 1912-2006 Photos & documents {{ media.short_title }} {{ media.date_translated }} Rechercher les actes correspondants . Heinrich Harrer left Tibet before the Chinese army invasion in 1950. However, Simon Wiesenthal, always careful to distinguish between war criminals and Nazis, did not consider Harrer to have been guilty of wrong-doing. Heinrich Harrer led many more mountaineering adventures after that. Heinrich Harrer was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author. Imprimer son arbre. Hij is vooral bekend voor zijn op de vier-man klimmen team dat de eerste beklimming van de noordwand van de gemaakte Eiger in Zwitserland, en voor zijn boeken Seven Years in Tibet (1952) en The White Spider (1959). The Kirkus Review of his sequel said, "In 1982 he was able to revisit Tibet during the 'Chinese-staged thaw,' and he was by turns heartbroken and inspired by what be observed: Valuable cultural treasures had been destroyed by the invaders, and stories of concentration camps, forced labor, and political murders sent him reeling. At Zell-am-See in 1937, he won the downhill race at the World Student Championships. 0 6 . None the less, the Third Reich saw a propaganda coup. Trips to the Andes, Alaska, and the Ruwenzori, Africa's "Mountains of the Moon", followed and the marriage was dissolved in 1958. Knowing an extraordinary feat of climbing could win him a place on a Himalayan expedition, Harrer and a friend, Fritz Kasparek, resolved to be the first to climb the North Face of the Eiger (3,967 m, 13,025 ft) in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland. They arrived in Lhasa on Jan. 15, 1946, and squatted in the courtyard of a wealthy citizen who welcomed them. He also traveled through the Amazon region, the Himalayas, and the Mountains of the Moon in central Africa. • Gold Medal of Graz, 1980 Mr. Harrer escaped from the camp after several attempts. Harrer, one of the heroes of the first ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger, was amongst his own kind, mountaineers with a keen appreciation of the audacity and climbing genius deployed over those four days in 1938 on the infamous "Mordwand". The ship being long overdue, Harrer, Ludwig, and Hans Lobenhoffer tried to reach Persia, but several hundred kilometers northwest of Karachi they were put under the "protection" of British soldiers and escorted back to Karachi, where Aufschnaiter had stayed. Following his final university exams in July 1938, Harrer and Kasparek traveled to Kleine Scheidegg at the foot of the Eiger and set out on their climb. Harrer's marriage application stated he had been a member of the Sturmabteilung (SA) - Nazi thugs - from 1933 and had joined the SS in 1938. The two discussed Buddhism and Western science incessantly. In 1935, Harrer was designated to participate in the Alpine skiing competition at the 1936 Winter Olympics in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. As a result of the interest the project excited during the production stage, an investigation undertaken by an Austrian radio presenter, Gerald Lehner, in the German Federal Archives in Berlin and then published in Stern magazine, revealed Harrer to have had a Nazi past. After the Anschluss of March 1938, as Germany annexed Austria, he joined the Schutzstaffel (SS) on 1 April. Other of Harrer's exploits were also brought to light by the film, though unexpectedly. An avalanche nearly swept them away as they were crossing the White Spider's glassy face. It was, in any case, a mistake.". Inspired by his classic account of the climb in Die Weisse Spinne (The White Spider, 1959), some of those listening had literally followed in his ice footholds up the 6,000ft bastion. His first contact with the Dalai Lama came when he was instructed to take a cine-film of the novel sport of skating, which he had introduced, as the 14-year old Dalai Lama could not see the rink from the roof of the Potala palace. The Tibetan leader's continued friendship was a valued moral prop for Harrer when the stains of his Nazi past began to show. Tom Ford September 26, 2017. In 1996, ORF editor and filmmaker Gerald Lehner found in American archives the membership card of Harrer, who joined the Sturmabteilung (SA) in October 1933. [11] Harrer died on 7 January 2006 in Friesach, Austria at the age of 93. On a brief visit to Tibet in 1982, Harrer had been greatly saddened by the destruction the Chinese had wrought. Orville Schell, in his 2000 book "Virtual Tibet: Searching for Shangri-La from the Himalayas to Hollywood," commented: "There are not that many moments in life when to claim to be a craven careerist of the most calculating sort is a step up from ignominy.". Battered by stone-fall and avalanches, they reached the summit in a howling storm and shook hands without a word. Harrer wrote a record of his adventures, Seven Years in Tibet, which was published in Britain in 1953. Heinrich Harrer's first marriage, in 1938, to Charlotte Wegener, daughter of the explorer Alfred Wegener, ended in divorce. Four years later, he married Katharina Haarhaus… During his years in Tibet, he was the tutor to the 14th Dalai Lama. It was one of the greatest adventures of the 20th century. After their ascent of the Eiger North Face, the four climbers were received by and photographed with Adolf Hitler. The Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950 ended Harrer's stay, forcing him to leave in March the next year. Mr. Harrer became the Dalai Lama's tutor when he was 37 and his pupil was 14, teaching him about topics ranging from Soviet politics to how a jet engine works. They are both marvellous accounts of high adventure - literally so. He always had an adventurous streak with love for skiing and mountain climbing. When he sailed from Antwerp bound for Narga Parbat in spring 1939, he would not see Europe again for 13 years. He was married to Katharina Haarhaus, Margaretha Truxa and Lotte Wegener. He was a writer and actor, known for Seven Years in Tibet (1997), Heinrich Harrer berichtet (1963) and Seven Years in Tibet (1959). Harrer returned to Austria and married Margaretha Truxa, but she did not see much of her wandering husband. Relation: Name: Birth: Husband: Heinrich Harrer: July 6 1912: Spotted an error? Seven Years in Tibet was translated into 53 languages, and was a bestseller in the United States in 1954, selling three million copies. But for once, Harrer would have preferred anonymity. Several times Harrer and Aufschnaiter were ordered to leave by officials, but by dint of persistence, bluff and resourcefulness they reached Lhasa after a bleak journey across the Changtang plateau in January 1946. His third marriage was to Katharina Haarhaus. • International Campaign for Tibet's Light of Truth Award, 2002. I also have to say that if the Communist party had invited me I would have joined. Mountains, however, were his true passion, and he knew that only an extraordinary feat of climbing could win him a place on a Himalayan expedition. In 1953, he married Margaretha Truxa (divorce in 1958), and in 1962 he married Katharina Haarhaus (1962–2006), who remained his wife until his death. The Dalai Lama told his friend that if his conscience was clear, he had nothing to fear, The Independent, the London newspaper, reported. In his 2002 autobiography Mein Leben, he protested: "Was it youthful opportunism or blind determination, to subordinate oneself for sporting objectives? • Lost Lhasa (1953) The embrace of National Socialism - with the joint German and Austrian Alpenverein a hotbed of anti-Semitism from the 1920s - remains an affair never fully admitted. Then 86 years old, Harrer was still an imposing figure, who had only recently stopped ski-ing in the hills of his native Carinthia, in south-east Austria. They attempted to escape from their captors multiple times but were successful in April 1944. I was, I admit it, extremely ambitious and I was asked if I would become the teacher of the SS at skiing. Harrer was recorded at the time as being moved to tears by Hitler's praise at Breslau, replying effusively: "We have climbed the Eiger Nordwand, over the summit beyond, to you, our Führer." • The book Seven Years in Tibet is made into a film starring Brad Pitt With him was his expedition's German leader, Peter Aufschnaiter. He was married to Katharina Haarhaus, Margaretha Truxa and Lotte Wegener. Harrer first met the 14th Dalai Lama when he was summoned to the Potala Palace and asked to make a film about ice skating, which Harrer had introduced to Tibet. She gave up waiting for her missing husband. And Harrer shared the reluctance of many of his countrymen to face up to it. Harrer became a tutor to the young Dalai Lama, instructing "this clever lad" in the ways and sciences of the West and arguing about religion. ... Harrer married secondly, in 1953 (dissolved 1958), Margarethe Truxa, and thirdly, in 1962 Katharina Haarhaus. In 1937, Harrer won the downhill event at the World Student Championships at Zell am See. Heinrich Harrer (* 6.Juli 1912 in Obergossen, Marktgemeinde Hüttenberg, Kärnten, Österreich; † 7. The Swiss government had forbidden any further attempts. With an athletic body honed from running errands for his father around the hills of Hüttenberg, he excelled at skiing and mountaineering. In the 1990s, as Hollywood was working on Seven Years in Tibet, a radio journalist from Salzburg, Gerald Lehner, obtained documents in Washington taken from the Berlin state archives after the Second World War. Nineteen thirty-eight was Harrer's big year, the year in which he climbed the Eiger, met Hitler, joined the SS, married Lotte and readied himself for the German expedition to Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas the following summer. Keep your little bookworms engaged outside of the classroom with our selection of the very best literary adaptations. Harrer maintained that he had only once worn his SS uniform, on the occasion of his wedding in December 1938; but the revelations of his Nazi associations caused reactions varying from unease to outrage, and led to some changes being made to the film and to the marketing campaign.

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